Ames to Amana

Tuesday, 8/31
Thunder, lightning, heavy rain and wind awoke us.  So un-California, but then, we're in Iowa.  Great city, Ames.  And Midwestern people continue to make us transients so welcome. 

Eastbound on US 30 entering the Big Rain

Eastbound from Ames on the original US 30, AKA the Lincoln Highway, we're enveloped in our first serious rain, but it's welcome.  The coach is being heavenly washed.  Dirt disappears.  Windshield obliterating bugs are cleaned for their sanitized entry to bug heaven without my earthly scrubbing.  How much better can it get for us road warriors who have major world- viewing windows?

Grain hauling big rigs flew by, route numbers changed with every curve, but we remained on the original US 30 until finally connecting with the present 4-lane version, exiting to the Cedar Rapids Airport where Doris acquired our Avis Ford Focus, a favorite rental.  It actually had automatic door locks & windows ... with a free day thrown in because I once was an important, Preferred Avis Client.  Through some blinding rain, we finally found The Amanas, several towns that also have a flat, meadow-like RV park. Giving us the best site (they said), they also gave me the opportunity to get drenched while connecting to water, sewer and electricity.  Whoopee!  At least, I didn't experience a Ben Franklin kite-flying experience.

Changing from soggy to dry clothes, I then drove my favorite wife to a most tasty lunch in one of the many Amanas.   Amana, West Amana, HIgh Amana, Middle Amana, East Amana, South Amana ... even Amana itself, constitute the Amana Colonies of Iowa.  Apparently, the persecuted the Community of True Inspiration, along with the Old Order of Amish, were too busy living in ultimately unacceptable communal living conditions while eluding their persecutors to think of more novel village names like Keokuk, Crazy Woman, or East Los Angeles, etc.   Hurray for them.  I don't particularly care for those, especially after wandering (lost?) among the Amanas.  Unlike Pennsylvania's more touristy Penn Dutch country that preceded some of the original Amana inhabitants, these towns host shops that are unpopulated and somewhat untouristy.  Out of respect, or succumbing to the local charm, I think we bought something of quality in every shop that we stumbled into. 

Especially the restaurant.  Ummhmmmummhum!  Great German-inspired food (the Amish and Community of True Inspiration had their roots in Germany) kept us from spinning into the stratosphere as cyclonic storms continued to do our laundry while still wearing our clothes.  Our spirits are yet to be dampened in mid-America.  .

Tomorrow?  Further exploration into the Amanas.  Perhaps we'll find the elusive non-Amana brand air conditioner or refrigerator, a real challenge in this part of the world because these items are actually produced.  I'll take a picture for you if we find a traitor.  Meantime, tonight, we slumber to the sound of pounding rain, cooled in this.warm, humid climate by our beloved air conditioners.

Novelty, Belts, and Corn

Monday, 8/30

By 8 a.m. we've crossed the Missouri River from South Sioux City, NE to Sioux City, IA.  With Sheila, our GPS, we made the trip to the generator mechanic in less than six minutes.  However, we did have some suspicions about his qualifications.  Company name:  Novelty Machine & Supply Company.  "Uh, are you SURE you can fix this problem?"  With temps and humidity rising outside (and inside) the coach, we were told that John, was the best in the state and we'd be happy with the results.

We are.  Way in the back of the gen is a fan belt.  Rather than a 3/4" width, ours had been reduced to a thread.  No wonder the gen overheated after 4 minutes, nothing was moving the fan blades.  Unfortunately, Novelty had belts that fit every machine in the world ...  but not ours.  A six hour wait while one was trucked from Omaha got too warm for me in the coach without air conditioning.  Doris suffered less than I (she loves heat), so I spent time outside while John changed all the filters and oil, and, with my help, blew out all the accumulated dust and assorted critters from the engine compartment and battery box.  With constant, swirling Iowa wind, John absolutely could not avoid being in the center of the blowing dust.  And did we ever have dust!  Seven years of it from nearly every state.  Poor guy.  (Not so poor now as we gave him a handful of dust free cash for going above and beyond the call of duty.)

Two notes:
1)  The six hour wait is nothing when compared to our friends Bill & Nikki, and Guinness (their black lab) who are traveling from Florida to Vermont where we hope to connect.  16 hours over two days were spent in their air conditioned car while waiting for their coach to be fixed soon after they left their Florida home.  Close quarters while experiencing a frustrating repair service, a true relationship test.

2)  So why the company name "Novelty Machine & Supply Company"?  Seems the continuously family owned company began in 1876, manufacturing novelty items, e.g., artistically designed wrought iron fences, for wealthy Iowans.  One thing led to another and now the company provides specially designed agricultural and commercially used equipment, repairs the same, plus represents dozens of manufacturers for the Midwest, everything from ball bearings to pumps, pipes, etc., etc.  One speciality is Onan, the maker of our generator.  Parts and service, and one of the best Onan mechanics.  We are so fortunate to have them next door.  They solved our problem with renowned Midwest attitude of service with grace and warmth.  Too bad that Bill & Nikki had to fight to receive the same.

OK, now we're on the road again, taking state and narrow county roads through the Iowa countryside to connect with  2-lane US 30 at Denison.  US 30 looks the same as it did in the 60's when I hitch hiked it.  Rolling hills, small towns with populations less than 2,000, each with several grain elevators,  the highway is bordered with thousands of acres of corn readying for harvest.  The road is mostly smooth, the traffic minimal, all much more enjoyable than the interstate to the south.

6 PM finds us in Ames, home of Iowa State University.  Enough travel (and waiting to travel) for one day, we now reside at the Walmart Super Center, parked waaaaay in the back next to the ever present cornfield.  Free overnight parking meant paying Walmart for groceries, or, as I've decided, we get free groceries and pay dearly for the parking. 

Dinner was a Doris creation:  Homemade tacos.  I'm not much for Mexican food, but these were outstanding.  Enough so that they subtracted 5 pounds from the refrigerator and moved them to the driver's seat.  I'm NEVER going to lose weight as long as Doris puts food in my trough.

On the River

Sunday, 8/29

Sioux City, Iowa Across the Wide Missouri

Up early to avoid the heat when scrubbing the bugs off our windshield ... a two-day collection, along with the dust and some mud created by a single passing cloud of wet.  What a mess!  Prior to bug removal was an excursion on my back to the underside of the generator to see if the filters were possible causes, or visible electrical shorting behind the control panel.  No luck.  That means an early Monday morning departure to a local mechanic.  Driving there with crossed fingers will be mandatory.

A pleasant walk to the marina's renowned restaurant provided some exercise, more than offset by a buffet lunch.  Excellent choice.

It's backgammon night, score to be announced if I win.

It's also a good time to say "Thank You" to all who are following us and for your comments.  Most of you are using my rrdflyer@aol.com address and that is fine.  Doris or I will do our best to reply to everyone.  I can truthfully say that it doesn't seem like we've been on the road for two weeks, but then, we've seen so much and enjoyed meeting so many fellow travelers and local residents along the way.  We are truly blessed with so many abundances.

Crossing Nebraska

Saturday, 8/28

Chadron in Northwest Nebraska is the old US 20 that crosses the US from Boston to Newport, OR.  At age 21, I finally had my first car and drove it from home to Oregon via US 20.  So, more reminiscing as we headed east towards Iowa along this highway across northern Nebraska.  We could have dropped south to I-80, but as we found out, we made the right choice.  Most noticeable:  No traffic.  We had the two lane highway to ourselves.  When Doris drove, all I asked was that she keep the coach between the fields.  On the right, soybeans.  On the left, corn.  Thousands and thousands of acres of both in the eastern half of northern Nebraska.  Earlier,the western half gave us serene, rolling grassy plains.  Therefore the beauty of the land, and the incredible agricultural abundance, along with easy driving made for a great day in America's heartland, not to mention $2.85/gallon diesel that was pumped for us.

The only negative was the wind.  30 mph wind, per the roadside windsocks.  Broadsiding us for most of the 364 miles (this trip's second longest daily distance), we both built up our arm muscles, constantly trying to keep us somewhere between the corn and beans.

5:30pm found us at South Sioux City, Nebraska's Scenic Park Campground.  A section of a pretty city park and marina, the RV area looks across the Missouri River toward Sioux City, Iowa and its river boat/casino/hotel.  Cost?  $20/night for full hookup.  "Stay as long as you want", said the manager.  When we looked at the property, we decided to stay an extra day and enjoy our wait to have the generator maintained.  The daily strong wind is a good offset to the slightly humid, 90 degree temperature. 

Doris's renowned "On the Road Again" chile was a great way to end a long, visually feasting day.  "Visually feasting"?  I must be tired.

Wild Horses & Issues

Friday, 8/27

Leaving the Black Hills, we cruised southward to South Dakota's Wild Horse Sanctuary.  The last three miles of "cruising" was in a dust cloud, thanks to the well traveled dirt road leading to the old ranch house, now visitor center.  Unbelievable!  And all we could think of was having to replace the new air filter after driving back to the main highway via the same dirt road.  I don't think the coach has ever been this dusty before, yet very little entered the interior.  Monaco did make a good coach for us, but we'd recommend that you use a car (preferably not your own) to visit the sanctuary. 

Walt, describing the "Hildalgo" movie set below.

Our Marlboro smoking guide, Walt, is a big city Maryland transplant, and one of the best in any business.  He and his knowledge and love of the horses made it all especially worthwhile.  11,000 acres, 650 horses, picturesque setting, viewed from non-air conditioned rattle trap, dust filled old school bus with more dirt roads and cross range land driving in 100 degree heat.  Pick the best of these components and you'll know why we enjoyed the outing. 

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We're still assimilating the volumes of information delivered in the 2 1/2 hour afternoon excursion.  The horses come from roundups by the Bureau of Land Management which attempts to maintain a healthy balance between wild horses and available natural feed on various BLM lands.  Some domesticated horses are actually dumped on the far acreage by people who no longer want or need them ... a problem for the sanctuary.  All are allowed to live in this natural state and cared for by a handful of people, including Walt, because of an Oregon rancher who moved to South Dakota, loved horses, and wanted to do something special with land that was destined to being a missile test site until the local residents shot it down (yes, dear questioning minds, the pun is intended).  The blend of caring humans and beautiful animals is near perfect.

He may be wild, but he knows who cares for him.

Late afternoon, we continued south and crossed into Nebraska, making our way to Chadron's WalMart for a night of a quick dusting and vacuuming, showering, and washing the day's clothes of South Dakota's dust.  Oh yes, we decided to wash the coach ourselves in one of those places that gave the appearance that we could drive into the bay.  Believe it or not, we tried, heard a "crunch" and decided we wouldn't be washing the coach at this location.  Checking the roof top, I decided someone at a much higher altitude than ours had once again saved a less intelligent soul from disaster.  No damage whatsoever ... if you discount the barely visible imprint of a brick on the TV satellite dome's paint.   

A 40 mph wind was broadsiding our parked coach, pushing the 102 degree heat at us, when the generator quit.  Uh oh.  No air conditioning.  Start.  Stop.  Start.  Stop.  The code indicated overheat of either the gen and/or the inverter.  Leaving the gen exposed, we decided to cool off in Walmart's air conditioned paradise.  Of course that became an expense,  but we needed some groceries anyway ... didn't we?  Later, trying the generator again, it also quit again.  And at 8pm, it's still wind driven HOT.  Good fortune reminded us of an RV park a mile away, complete with 50 amp service to drive both ACs, the washer/dryer, nuke oven and both TVs and the ice maker.  Even the stock market was up, all of which made life good again for another day. 

The Presidents

Thursday, 8/26

Another perfect weather day with a special evening treat.  But first, we attend a time share type of presentation that allowed us to stay at this park for almost nothing for three days.  Give the nice man $7,000 and annual "maintenance" fees and our two kids and their kids can travel the world forever so cheaply that we should be ashamed of ourselves for not shouting "YES, WE WILL!".  So, you guessed it.  We're ashamed.

Back to major housekeeping so that we can enter Nebraska without being quarantined by the health department for six months.  Late afternoon and ... off to Mt. Rushmore National Memorial.  Most visitor view the massive, mountainside sculptures of Washington, Jefferson, T. Roosevelt and Lincoln during the day. 

Five Retired Presidents

We chose to pay our respects as the sun was setting, and to participate in the evening ceremony.  Included:  Patriotic music, a memorable and meaningful speech by the park ranger, beautiful movie of the creation of the memorial, including the reasons for choosing these four presidents, and the finale after dark ... the lighting of the sculptures.  Unplanned, but exciting, was the slow procession of large white mountain goats up the path and through the rubble remaining below the presidents' faces.

Concluding was the request for all military veterans to proceed to the amphitheatre stage.  It was most touching to see so many slowly make their way through the audience to the stage, accompanied by constant applause.  Six volunteered to lower the flag, fold it properly and present it to the ranger. 

This evening (with an almost full moon), and the evening rehearsal of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir are the two best planned events experienced on this trip to date. 

Tomorrow?  We leave the Rapid City/Mt. Rushmore area for a day and overnight at the Wild Horse Sanctuary in the very southwestern corner of South Dakota, a state that has developed a special fondness in us. 

Wildlife & Guns

Wednesday, 8/25

It's going to be a great day.  A new air filter 2/3 the size of Doris appears to have eliminated most of the black cloud of smoke on acceleration.  Apparently, the air intake had sucked in and filled the old one with a large quantity of fine, gray/white particles, a couple of beer bottles, and a very annoyed hitchhiker. 

After moving from the Elks Lodge to a full service RV park closer to Mt. Rushmore, we took our very basic rental car (manual windows and door locks; no cruise control; a gas tank so small we can fill it with one of the new found beer bottles) and headed off to Custer State Park.  Good thing we didn't take the coach.  The windy road to access the park was also populated with photogenic one way tunnels that were so height challenged and so narrow that we were required to sound our squeaky-mouse horn before entering.  Not sure what the sounding was supposed to do besides frighten mice from entering at the same time.

The sign says "No RVs".  No kidding.

Anyway, the park gave us natural South Dakota beauty for many miles, but none of the advertised wildlife ... until the wild burros came entered the road to be fed. 

Now we know why our sub-basic rental car came with two mirrors.

And then the pronghorns, prairie dogs ... and finally the bison, better known to the less sophisticated as buffalo, decided to entertain us.  Not one bison ... HUNDREDS!  Bigger than our car.  Heck, bigger than your car!  Being surrounded by them, we wisely and quickly cranked up the windows (as if that would save us).  It was the only thing we could do besides apologizing to the foaming herd for having once bitten their distant relative after it had been transformed into a buffalo burger.

For some reason, the decision to make a right turn came easily.

Did I say foaming herd?  I meant pooping herd.  My God, these beasts have perfected the natural act to the highest production volume of any animal we've previously encountered.  And they don't mind dropping their over sized, fresh meadow muffins on the nicely paved roads.  Note to self:  In the future, stay a lengthy distance from the car ahead of us.  That stuff has also been perfected to fly great distances.

OK, enough potty talk.  We thoroughly enjoyed Custer State Park, but eventually wound our way out and onto county roads taking us to Keystone.  Another old west town transformed into a tourist attraction, it provided great entertainment and some great laughs at the Red Garter Saloon where we enjoyed a comedic rendition of the life of Wild Bill Hickok and associated gun slingers. 

Bikers and Gun Fights

Tuesday, 8/24

25 miles west of Rapid City is Biker Heaven, AKA Sturgis, SD.  Home of the annual Biker Weeks in early August, Sturgis was fun for us.  Doris had a tough time finding the correct biker chick t-shirt for herself, but it sure was fun helping her.  The selection ranges from the really cute to the "Oh MY GODDD!!!".  I'll guess you know which one she bought. 

May He Rest Easy

Tattoo shops almost outnumber the t-shirt stores, so it was time for Doris to, shall we say, "identify" herself.  Unfortunately, she resisted the opportunity.  Despite the picture, so did I. 

Biker Heaven at Its Worst

So much of Sturgis is now closed, as it does annually once the 600,000 biker visitors leave, so we moved on to nearby Deadwood.  With a river as one boundary, a very close mountainside as the other, Deadwood became famous for its gold and silver mining was famous for something else.  Wild Bill Hickok, once sheriff and also a good shot with the highly inaccurate guns of the time, lost his life here.  Shot in the back by an assassin, Hickok's demise began with breaking his own rule:  Always sitting with his back to the wall. 

Deadwood's downtown is still essentially one long street, now filled with boring tourist oriented shops and, uh oh, casinos.  Every hotel, and there are numerous, has one in the lobby.  Restaurants depend on them for profits more than the all-you-can-stomach buffets. 

We didn't leave in time for Doris's husband from paying more for his lunch than the posted price.

Back home, we're watching the news of the Chilean miners who seem in high spirits, but who will have to spend months underground before coming to the surface.  Our sympathies and prayers go out to them from this beautiful part of the world.  We are so fortunate.  We wish the same for them.

Rapid City

Monday, 8/23

Doris got us a rental car for the duration.  I took the coach to a Cummins shop as we're blowing black smoke on acceleration, not a good sign.  Diagnostics showed no codes (a good sign).  A new air filter was ordered as the old one is filled with very fine "stuff".  We have the replacement before we leave town.  We hope that works.

Everyone has to see Wall Drug in (ready for this?) Wall, SD.   Founded in the early '30s, business was slow in this one horse town 45 minutes east of Rapid City, the druggist/owner saw traffic zipping by and correctly decided that placing multiple signs for long distances before Wall was a good idea ... if the signs said "Free Ice Water".  No kidding.  It can be HOT here.  Business boomed beyond expectations.  in '64 (last century for you young'uns), I stopped there and found it a savior.  Car air conditioners were rare.  My '56 Ford's operated by opening windows to the outside hot air.

Today, Wall Drug, and a large portion of Wall, is an overblown tourist trap.  Black Hills Gold is sold at 50-75% discount in every conceivable retail shop ... and still way over priced, per Doris, the expert on such things.  Lunch at Wall Drug challenges the worst of the truck stops that have served me over the years.  Lunch at the competition won our vote, only to be necessarily re-digested several times before bedtime.

Sorry, no photos today.  We're trying to maintain a positive blog.

Hello To Old Faces

Sunday, 8/22

It wasn't easy to leave new friends in Lusk, but once they painted my name on the Elks Lodge, it was best to get out of town .. fast. 

  A promise made requiring immediate departure from Lusk, WY.  Obviously, Jim shows great promise.

Reluctantly we did, heading north then east into the Black Hills of South Dakota.  Pine forests took over from the high plains, giving us more elevation, more easy, non-interstate driving with little traffic.  Vistas around every curve.  Then, as we began to descend toward Rapid City, a special view of Mt. Rushmore.  Showing only the right profile of George Washington, dynamited and chiseled into the side of the mountain, our introduction to the next five days of touring brought excitement to us.  There is so much to see and do within an hour's drive of Rapid City.  We intend to do it all.

Our location for the first three days will be the Rapid City Elks Lodge RV parking.  Located facing the lodge's golf course, we began meeting another crop of nice people, including RV neighbors from Grants Pass, Oregon.  Sharing experiences and cold libations with Jerry and Carol was a fun way to end the the 104 degree day.

Wyoming Shows Off

Saturday, 8/21

The sky is severe clear, the wind is at our back, I-80 and chosen side roads are smooth and empty of traffic.  As we effortlessly roll up and down the hills and around gentlle curves, we concluded that our task was to sit back, relax and enjoy viewing the natural beauty of the open range, grazing cattle and prong horn elk, tiny villages with no speed restrictions ... and the warm breeze flowing through the windows.  Serenity while driving our "house" across the high plains?  Simply, "yes".

From Medicine Bow, we drove Wyoming highway 487 and 220 north to Casper, known for the nearby riches of oil and gas.  The highways are known as The Sand Creek Massacre Trail.  I'll let you Google the name for it refers to a most unpleasant part of our history of overtaking this country from the natives.

East of Casper is Douglas.  Home to the Wyoming State Fair, we had the fun of viewing sheep shearing, prize bales of hay, weighing up to 1,840 lbs.  And to think that when I was a preteen/teenager, I tossed them over my head onto the hay wagon! 

Hmmm, maybe mine were the 75 lb version. 

And then there was the wild horse show, by itself, worth the stop.  Teenage girls brought their wild horses into the ring and showed us how trained these wild, range running beasts had become.  Side-stepping, jumping, reversing, galloping, suddenly stopping to get the mail from a road side mailbox,  having a heavy yellow slicker swung over and around their head ... all without flinching.  These beautiful animals have been rounded up by the Bureau of Land Management to prevent over grazing.  Instead of slaughtering them, the various BLM districts have professional trainers (also demo'ing for us) partially train the horses before auctions, such as the one following the girls' show).  Minimum bid:  $125.  We spoke to one of the girls who's family has three.  Petting her horse and watching him relax after the show gave us a special pleasure, knowing that his fate was in loving hands.

Writing of young girls reminds me of another heartwarming incident; actually several incidents of youthful good manners.  Entering the shuttle wagon drawn behind the omnipresent John Deere farm tractor, no seats were available.  Immediately, two teen girls offered theirs.  This occurred again when we were waiting for a ride in the 94 degree sun.  Our response?  "No thank you, but thank you for your politeness."  Wouldn't be wonderful if our mutual smiles were replicated throughout our country?

An hour east of Douglas on US 18 is Lusk, WY.  A pretty village with an Elks Lodge for our overnight parking gave us a most friendly and enjoyable last night in Wyoming.  Immediately welcomed by members and relatives (and EVERYONE is a relative!), we shared stories, the area's history, food and drink.  Dinner was not officially being served, but food came in, Doris made a steak salad and all of us had a great time.  Housed in a former school house, the Lodge gave us a feeling of being in a home with dear friends.  Jim  & Sheila, having toured the US for four solid years, moved back to Lusk for a good reason:  It's an especially warm and friendly town.  Sheila, like our GPS that we long ago named Sheila, doesn't do directions well, but like everyone else in Lusk, we sure will fondly remember how to get back here.  Thanks "Luskers"!

Big City to Little Town

Friday, 8/20

Salt Lake Shower

(NOTE:  TO ENLARGE PHOTOS, PLACE YOUR CURSOR ON THEM, AND CLICK AT LEAST ONCE.  You may not be impressed, but at least your screen will be filled with views instead of words.)


Cashing in our Enterprise car, we headed north to I-84E to maneuver with other bigger rigs numerous 55 mph curves along a scenic river until we reached I-80 and entered Wonderful Wyoming.  So little traffic, we enjoyed reminiscing (at least I did) about my hitchhiking through this country before freeways in the 60s as I made my way from Vermont to Oregon State University to conclude my undergraduate studies.  Sure wouldn't do it now, but I met so many people/family/ultimate friends.  Ah, the good ol' days really were good for me when I had only $40 to cross the country, with most of it intact at my destination.

After homemade lunch, Doris took the wheel and did a great job of keeping Betsy between the white lines in strong crosswinds and big rigs.  Refueling in Rawlins, we drove the streets of "downtown", deciding that friends Rich & Jackie, Jim & Linda had chosen a rather quiet place to "camp" back in May at the local RV park.  Major clue:  The first JC Penney Catalog Store I've seen in a half century is a hot spot in downtown Rawlins.

We're dining at home tonight.  Fred's Burger Shoppe & Taxidermy didn't impress us.

Stormy Morning. Beautiful Music.

Thursday, 8/19

The plan was to spend the day exploring downtown Salt Lake.  Nature had other plans.  Morning became very dark and very windy.  And then the rain began. BOOM!  Lightning, thunder seldom see in California made a good show ... from inside the coach.  No sightseeing this morning, but a good opportunity for housekeeping and reorganizing our possessions to make life more enjoyable.

Nature also has a way of enhancing our trip.  Mid-afternoon, the skies cleared, the temperature had dropped to the low 70s and the strong wind became a light breeze.  This was perfect for a ten minute drive to downtown Salt Lake and its wide streets with so little traffic that we felt we had the city to ourselves.  A visit to "The Gallery", an attractive two story, outdoor shopping mall incorporating the historic Union Station was a highlight.  While completely empty, the main lobby of the station is decorated with murals and stained glass windows depicting the Old West.  Back lit by the afternoon sun, the windows were a visual treat.

Dinner at Lamb's, the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Utah, complete with original furnishings and antiques, provided comfort food.  No nouvelle cuisine here, but definitely a calm, enjoyable dining experience.

The highlight was to come when we walked into Temple Square and viewed the Mormon Tabernacle, Conference Center and surrounding buildings.  Paths through the abundant trees and flowering gardens encouraged serenity.  We entered one smaller church to enjoy a men's choral group, and another building where an organist was practicing.

At 8pm, we began to experience the primary reason for being in Salt Lake on a Thursday evening:  Witnessing the rehearsing Mormon Tabernacle Choir and accompanying Orchestra.  My words and pictures cannot adequately describe how the efforts of more than 400 singers and musicians lifted our spirits.  Absolutely awesome.  With the backdrop of the numerous (and enormous) organ pipes, the all volunteer group gave us their renditions of "Oklahoma's" 'Oh What a Beautiful Morning', plus "Morning Has Risen", and one exquisitely delivered hymn.   

At the conclusion of the 90 minute rehearsal, we were treated to a clear sky with a half moon rising above the pristine white, multi-spired Temple.  Like the rising voices of the choir, the moon gave us a special lift and an ending to a very special day in Salt Lake.

Tomorrow morning, we leave for Wyoming, taking beautiful memories of Utah with us.

Utah at Rest

Wednesday, 8/18

It is HOT!  Skin cracking dry too.  Yet, dawn meant it was windshield bug removal time if we wanted to see the rest of the US.  The hot task seemed to drain all this window washer's energy.  Meanwhile, my favorite Taiwanese laundress was busy exercising our washer/dryer.  In the end, the only sightseeing we did today was a run to Ogden, an industrial and rail center city north of us.  Home to a renovated Union Pacific rail station and museum, we happened on the dedication of a newly arrived engine from the D&RG, aka Denver & Rio Grande.  Along numerous engines and other rail cars, both commercial and military, all were open for close inspection.  Kids of all ages, including this author, clamored about.  Doris kept out of the sun and missed meeting a retired UP mechanic educating his children, grandchildren, and me about the inner workings of these behemoths that we see on the rails, and how their engineers manage those 1.5 mile long trains.  It was an honor to be his student for 30 minutes.

Returning to the RV park, we met new neighbors, John and Sally from North Carolina.  Acccompanied by their parrot, "Ben".  Sweet couple, fun bird that took a liking to Doris who once owned Ben's cousin "Charlie".

Ben & Doris:  Mutual Admiration

Home to catch up on the blog, fine dining with local fresh corn and one of Doris's grilled, marinated steaks.  This will be followed by a recorded session of History Channel's "Ice Road Truckers" to remind me that life on the road isn't always as decadent as we're privileged to experience. 

Tomorrow?  Salt Lake City and the Mormon Tabernacle Choir rehearsal.  We're excited.

Crossing Utah

Tuesday, 8/17

Leaving the parking lot and immediately crossing into Utah, we're reminded of the WWII significance of the Wendovers (NV & UT).  With the recent reminders of Victory in Japan, we pass the Wendover airport, once the secret training location of Colonel Tibbets and his crew of the B-29 "Enola Gay", and the crews of other aircraft who prepared here for the dropping of the bombs over Hiroshima and Nagasaki.  Even now, there are few to witness local events.

The Control Tower.  We listened on AM radio to drivers, crew, vehicle info and speed results.

Unless ... you're with us and spontaneously decide to drive onto the Bonneville Flats to see just what it's like to be on this large and magnificant salt bed.  We've done the same on the pristine gypsum beds known as White Sands National Monument in New Mexico.  This experience was different because we arrived to witness several of the speed trials during the annual Bonneville Speed Week.  Cars and motorcycles of every description are driven to their maximum speed while being officially timed.  We've seen such activities in car commercials.  Yet, there's nothing like being on the starting line, watching the crews prepare, the driver strapped in, or on, then witness the attempt to break records.  All this while trying to preserve the eye balls from the searing sun reflecting off the white salt, while in 96 degree heat.  We met another coach owner who liked our TV mods and, more importantly, owned the photo'd "Streamliner" that had just broken its own record of 200 mph on one of the three speed trial tracks.  We had a front row vista from our panoramic windshield.  This allowed us to enjoy and learn in air conditioned comfort while others stood in our shade.  If only we had cases of cold beer for sale, we'd have paid for the trip.

Lee's 200 mph Streamliner.
The umbrella protects the cockpit from the brilliant sun.

Moving eastward on I-80, we crossed along the shores of the Great Salt Lake.  Straight miles, minimal traffic, the Wasatch Mountains of eastern Utah began to replace the brilliant white of the seemingless endlessness of the salt beds either side of the interstate ... a welcome change.

North Salt Lake, UT is now our home for three nights.  Beautiful RV park, a great dinner, then sightseeing in the hills of Bountiful (no kidding!) with our rental car was a special treat.  Beautiful homes in the foothills with magnificent scenes of the basin, mountains to the west ... and a very special sunset that brought out the locals as well as two California transients.  Southern Utah has soooo impressed us.  Now we can say the same of the Salt Lake area.

Monday, 8/16 - Crossing Nevada

9:30am and we're rolling out of Reno toward the Nevada/Utah border, 400 miles distant.  Some would say the scenery is boring.  Perhaps if one does this route every week, but not if it's an occasional trip.  Arid range land; dry lakes topped with salts; occasional towns, supported mostly by the railroads, mining and ranching; occasonal mountain grades to test one's skill.  The rest?  Minimal traffic, mostly big rigs that are courteous, signaling us back into their lane when we pass them, thanking us for doing the same when they pass us.  Mutual respect on the road is important to safety.  I personally like Nevada for its law enforcement signs indicating that if you act improperly near big rigs like ours, you will be ticketed.  Yess!!!  Thumbs up to that one, officer!

After lunch, Doris took over the wheel for 1 1/2 hours, covering 100 miles while I read the paper, relaxed, even napped  Good job, Doris!  Refueling at our favorite Flying J truck stops left us drained of $237 for the 594 miles traveled so far.  Our normal fuel burn is 7.2 miles/gallon, but the mountains we've crossed bring down the average for this portion of the trip.

Oh well, it's a dinner of dirt and warm water tonight.  No cold water here, as the temps are in the high 90s, and severly dry.

Well, not really.  We've reached West Wendover, NV for our overnight.  Free parking at the Peppermill Casino, along with big rigs from every state.  Next door is the casino and a decent buffet dinner.  The free parking turned into a $50 loss at the casino as we walked home for a good rest.

Tomorrow, on to Salt Lake City for a 3-night stopover and touring.

Leaving California for Nevada

Sunday, 8/14 - 9:30 a.m.  "Betsy the Bus" began her roll away from our "first home".  With daughter Lexi waving us on, we began our way eastward toward our first destination, Carson City, NV.  Beautiful  weather, light traffic aided our adaptation to the realization that we were leaving the known, the friends and neighbors who support us, and our college grad daughter for the ever changing life on the road.  Not a lot of conversation for awhile.

The familiar, well experienced roads gave  way to the rising Sierra foothills and the ever-higher Sierra Mountains themselves as we traveled I-80.  Time to really pay attention to speed control and gearing/braking.  We don't need to contribute ourselves and 36,000 lbs of possessions to the scenery "down there" in some rocky canyon.

"BANG!"  Just loud enough to reeaaallly get our attention, my first thought was that we'd blown a rear tire.  No.  The side panel tire pressure monitor indicated all was OK.  As Doris got up to check the interior, I suggested she look in the pantry for an exploded chip bag.  Sure enough, there was a bag that had exploded, and others looking mighty ready to "entertain us" if we climbed much further.

That was not to be.  A minute later we crested the Sierras at Donner Pass, 7227 feet, parking at a vista point where we had a view of Donner Lake.  With a spectacular vista from the front of our coach, we had our first lunch on the road.  Doris's cooking is among the best, accompanied by those chips, newly released from captivity.  It would be interesting to learn how chip makers prepare and ship chips everywhere, having to consider altitiude changes so that bags arrive unexploded everywhere.  Same goes for ice cream.  We've had 'fresh churned' (i.e. fluffed with air} do the same thing in our coach freezer.  Bought at sea level, stored in the freezer, traveling  with us as high as 8,000 feet, we found the top had been lifted and the ice cream coming out!

Continuing east to Reno, we turned south on US 395 and headed up the scenic route to the mining town of Virginia City.  We soon found ourselves grinding up the mountain side on a narrow two lane highway, mostly without guard rails that really would serve little purpose if we inappropriately attempted to straigthen any of the numerous curves.  Doris made it known that she wasn't enjoying her edge-of-the pavement/edge-of-eternity view seat.  From where I sat at the controls, I said not to worry, I'm quite experienced with this driving environment.  Retorted Doris, "You may be the driver with experience, but I'm the passenger with feelings!"   

Serious as she was, we both found ourselves laughing so much that this exchange has become the lingua franca of the trip. 

Virginia City.  Mining in the 1800s, destroyed by fire in the same century.  Rebuilt.  Interesting history and old buildings.  But ... very touristy.  Ice cream, burgers,  mulitiple shops selling the same old stuff; some antique shops worth viewing.  We learned all about Pickle Castors, priced from $50 (knockoffs from China and India of poor workmanship) and $2,000 antiques.  Nice people having a good time; challenging town to drive to and through.

Back to Reno for a night parked at the Super Walmart. for free.  Shopping wasn't free as I cracked the screen of my touch screen camera.  Do that and you know longer have a useable camera.  Grrr.  Walmarts usually allow overnight RV parking for a reason.  They have the space and they know we wanderers will find the front door and cash will be siphoned from our pockets.  They got a bunch from us tonight.  At least Doris's prepared dinner at home was found to be far superior to the nearby fast food restaurant offerings.

Ready to Launch: California to Maine ... and back

Home On The Road

We've been leisurely packing for days.  It feels like we're moving out of our home to some faraway place.  If I'm not careful, I'll be taking the kitchen sink; I'm on such a roll!  However, packing for our three month road trip around the US is only the finale before actual liftoff tomorrow morning.  A trip like this entails considerable reading, choosing places to inspect, friends to visit, selecting primary and secondary routes, preparing for every weather offered:  hot to freezing; dry to excessively humid; clear to stormy, even snowy.  Then there's making sure the RV is road worthy and comfortably livable.  In reality, we've been working on this journey for three months. 

The process has been most enjoyable for me.  Doris has given me free rein, asking only that we see new and interesting things and have fun connecting/re-connecting with people.  What an opportunity.  What a challenge!

Tomorrow, we'll commence the journey and begin to learn how good a job I've done so far.

The Beginnings