From Mountain Freezing to High Desert Heat

Tuesday, 11/09

French toast and Vermont maple syrup ... what a fine breakfast on this clear morning! 

Did I mention toast?  We'll it sure wasn't "toast"y outside. 22 degrees.  But, the wind had left us to another clear day to close up and head for the highway again.  However, one doesn't close up too fast when there's a frozen hose that had been appropriately disconnected from the water source to protect the coach's plumbing, but was not drained.  A solid white snake for the sun to de-freeze.  Then, the awnings that protect the slides were covered in ice that had to be removed before bringing the slides in.  Not having this challenge before, it was a very careful ascent to the roof and careful creeping along the icy roof to dislodge the ice and remove it from the awnings.  Earning another "Hero" medal, I then washed the windshield of remaining assorted road kill, and we were on our way again.  Destination?  Needles, CA which was boasting 70 degree temps, far from our frigid number.

However, as we approached Needles, we felt that it was too early to stop, especially since we gained an hour at the California border.  Sooo ... looking at the map and seeing absolutely no place to overnight between Needles and Barstow, Doris took the wheel and we headed for the Mojave desert town of Barstow.  Not a place to live, but a place to overnight.  Besides, there are factory outlet stores, Flying J Truck Stop, and an Elks Lodge.  So, here I am, sitting at the dining table, Doris charging down our famed California highways with the sun in her face, each mile taking us closer to our Bay Area home.  I'm not sure I'm ready, but then Doris wasn't ready to start this trip ... and yet it's been great doing this together.  If she can adjust to three months on the road with her beloved, then I will adjust to being home with mine.

Warning to all truckers:  Mama's heading for home!

Winter Is Coming To Williams

Monday, 11/08

With continued help from the nearby trains horning in on our sleep, it was easy to wake up early and LEAVE!  A glorious morning with incoming inclement weather from the west added to our desire to get on the road before very strong winds, rain and maybe snow showers took the joy out of watching the scenery roll by as we ride our magic carpet.

A lone cottonwood tree, the last sign of colorful foliage for this trip.

Northern Arizona gives us high desert range land, mountains, and pine forests as we approach Flagstaff.  Then, the highway begins a descent to lower countryside and our destination:  Williams, AZ.  Touting itself as "The Gateway to the Grand Canyon", this city born in 1881, has a first class, fully paved RV parking plan, perfect for us as rain was on its way and we're tired of tracking mud to our home on wheels.  Too, Williams inspired the writers of the Pixar movie "Cars" with its old time gas station and '54 blue Ford parked in front.  A nice town to walk, with sufficient restaurants to serve us if our in-home chef is having a day off ...which is seldom.

Williams, Arizona, from our 2006 cross country trip.  Kids like us like the movie "Cars", especially because so much of what we've seen on our traveling much of Route 66/I-40/I-44 is depicted in the movie.

Taking advantage of an early arrival, I chose a site that faced the increasing winds and oncoming storm.  Better to watch it than to be broadsided by it.  This was also a good time to clean house, do laundry, reply to emails, make phone calls, and blog.  Without outside temperatures dropping, it was also more fun to watch movies again and dine by candlelight.

First the wind, then the rain, and sure enough:  Snow!!  Not enough to make snow angels or snowmen, but our first of the trip, and the last as we're getting close to southern California, a state we vaguely remember.

Indians: Casino vs. Sky City Versions

Sunday, 11/07

Leaving Albuquerque on a bright Sunday morning, we head west, stopping for fuel at the Casino 66 Casino and Truck Stop.  Refueling the ponies, we decide to investigate the casino, the first of our trip.  Unlike previous trips, Doris declared that she was done with gambling ... but not quite, especially since I was ready to duplicate our last time here and win a few hundred dollars, then dine on the best casino buffet. 

The Casino 66 arrow points to the results of our Sunday gambling.

Back in the saddle after our casino adventure, we exit toward the Acoma Pueblo, AKA Sky City.  15 miles of narrow 2-lane road through beautiful, non-inhabited New Mexico led us to the base of  a mesa. 

On the road to Sky City.

At the top of the mesa is Sky City, aptly named because of the panoramic view of much of New Mexico from most every place on the mesa.  Occupied by the Acomans, an Indian tribe since about 1150 A.D., this is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in this country.  Of course, the Spanish explorers found them and nearly wiped out the Acomans ... but not quite.  Today, about a dozen families live in Sky City, while others have homes there, as well as in other towns nearby.  It is a very spiritual place, but guided tourists are welcome.  So, we paid the fee (plus $10 for using our camera) and enjoyed learning of and meeting these fine people. 

Our Acoman guide standing beside the community oven, with the valley floor as a backdrop.  No other kitchen has such a panoramic view.

Sky City Main Street.  One & two story adobe buildings.  No water, no electricity.

We would have had to walk up to & from the mesa through a very narrow slit in the side of the mesa, but western movies were made in this area in the 40's & 50s, and Hollywood had to build a road to get to the top.  Until then the Indians had to carry water, food and building materials by hand and back via the aforementioned path.  We  took the path on the way down and I still hurt from the experience!

The church, built by the Acomans under order of the Spanish.  Services are still held here.  No pews, all must stand for the duration.

All in all, Acoma, or Sky City, was a very special, somewhat spiritual experience on a warm, Sunday afternoon, and recommended to all of you.

Some people claimed they actually enjoyed the walk down the mesa.

To the right of us is Mt. Taylor.  The Acomans cut timber there and carry the logs for 12 miles, up the steps and use them to build their homes and church.

Further along I-40 was Gallup, where we've spent time and money, enjoying a somewhat prosperous city that acts as a trading post for the Indians selling their pottery, jewelery, blankets and rugs.  We've certainly helped them in the past to move their wares to California, but this time it was a familiar Walmart parking lot that was our overnight destination.  Essential shopping, home cooked dinner and a movie concluded this day ... except for the trains!  We'd forgotten that a major east/west track was only a few hundred feet from our site.  That would be OK except for the fact that trains blow their horn when approaching crossings.  All night,  1 1/2 mile long trains rolled past,  signalling their oncoming presence to the several crossings within earshot of us.  The many big rigs passing within feet of our bedroom were far more acceptable than the trains a few hundred feet away.  We always enjoy watching them parallel I-40, but we lost some affection for them this night.

Regardless of the nighttime Union Pacific Railroad Nighttime Serenade, it was a great day.