Saturday, 8/28
Chadron in Northwest Nebraska is the old US 20 that crosses the US from Boston to Newport, OR. At age 21, I finally had my first car and drove it from home to Oregon via US 20. So, more reminiscing as we headed east towards Iowa along this highway across northern Nebraska. We could have dropped south to I-80, but as we found out, we made the right choice. Most noticeable: No traffic. We had the two lane highway to ourselves. When Doris drove, all I asked was that she keep the coach between the fields. On the right, soybeans. On the left, corn. Thousands and thousands of acres of both in the eastern half of northern Nebraska. Earlier,the western half gave us serene, rolling grassy plains. Therefore the beauty of the land, and the incredible agricultural abundance, along with easy driving made for a great day in America's heartland, not to mention $2.85/gallon diesel that was pumped for us.
The only negative was the wind. 30 mph wind, per the roadside windsocks. Broadsiding us for most of the 364 miles (this trip's second longest daily distance), we both built up our arm muscles, constantly trying to keep us somewhere between the corn and beans.
5:30pm found us at South Sioux City, Nebraska's Scenic Park Campground. A section of a pretty city park and marina, the RV area looks across the Missouri River toward Sioux City, Iowa and its river boat/casino/hotel. Cost? $20/night for full hookup. "Stay as long as you want", said the manager. When we looked at the property, we decided to stay an extra day and enjoy our wait to have the generator maintained. The daily strong wind is a good offset to the slightly humid, 90 degree temperature.
Doris's renowned "On the Road Again" chile was a great way to end a long, visually feasting day. "Visually feasting"? I must be tired.
This 2010 travelog is written by husband Ralph with wife Doris providing memory support. Our motorhome trip begins near the Pacific Ocean, in a San Francisco, California suburb, reaches Maine on the Atlantic Ocean, then heads south & west toward home, covering 32 states and 8500 miles. This is not just about us, our trip & our friends. It is also describes a journey through America and what this great country offers its citizens and visitors. Come join us!
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Wild Horses & Issues
Friday, 8/27
Leaving the Black Hills, we cruised southward to South Dakota's Wild Horse Sanctuary. The last three miles of "cruising" was in a dust cloud, thanks to the well traveled dirt road leading to the old ranch house, now visitor center. Unbelievable! And all we could think of was having to replace the new air filter after driving back to the main highway via the same dirt road. I don't think the coach has ever been this dusty before, yet very little entered the interior. Monaco did make a good coach for us, but we'd recommend that you use a car (preferably not your own) to visit the sanctuary.
Our Marlboro smoking guide, Walt, is a big city Maryland transplant, and one of the best in any business. He and his knowledge and love of the horses made it all especially worthwhile. 11,000 acres, 650 horses, picturesque setting, viewed from non-air conditioned rattle trap, dust filled old school bus with more dirt roads and cross range land driving in 100 degree heat. Pick the best of these components and you'll know why we enjoyed the outing.
We're still assimilating the volumes of information delivered in the 2 1/2 hour afternoon excursion. The horses come from roundups by the Bureau of Land Management which attempts to maintain a healthy balance between wild horses and available natural feed on various BLM lands. Some domesticated horses are actually dumped on the far acreage by people who no longer want or need them ... a problem for the sanctuary. All are allowed to live in this natural state and cared for by a handful of people, including Walt, because of an Oregon rancher who moved to South Dakota, loved horses, and wanted to do something special with land that was destined to being a missile test site until the local residents shot it down (yes, dear questioning minds, the pun is intended). The blend of caring humans and beautiful animals is near perfect.
Late afternoon, we continued south and crossed into Nebraska, making our way to Chadron's WalMart for a night of a quick dusting and vacuuming, showering, and washing the day's clothes of South Dakota's dust. Oh yes, we decided to wash the coach ourselves in one of those places that gave the appearance that we could drive into the bay. Believe it or not, we tried, heard a "crunch" and decided we wouldn't be washing the coach at this location. Checking the roof top, I decided someone at a much higher altitude than ours had once again saved a less intelligent soul from disaster. No damage whatsoever ... if you discount the barely visible imprint of a brick on the TV satellite dome's paint.
A 40 mph wind was broadsiding our parked coach, pushing the 102 degree heat at us, when the generator quit. Uh oh. No air conditioning. Start. Stop. Start. Stop. The code indicated overheat of either the gen and/or the inverter. Leaving the gen exposed, we decided to cool off in Walmart's air conditioned paradise. Of course that became an expense, but we needed some groceries anyway ... didn't we? Later, trying the generator again, it also quit again. And at 8pm, it's still wind driven HOT. Good fortune reminded us of an RV park a mile away, complete with 50 amp service to drive both ACs, the washer/dryer, nuke oven and both TVs and the ice maker. Even the stock market was up, all of which made life good again for another day.
Leaving the Black Hills, we cruised southward to South Dakota's Wild Horse Sanctuary. The last three miles of "cruising" was in a dust cloud, thanks to the well traveled dirt road leading to the old ranch house, now visitor center. Unbelievable! And all we could think of was having to replace the new air filter after driving back to the main highway via the same dirt road. I don't think the coach has ever been this dusty before, yet very little entered the interior. Monaco did make a good coach for us, but we'd recommend that you use a car (preferably not your own) to visit the sanctuary.
| Walt, describing the "Hildalgo" movie set below. |
Our Marlboro smoking guide, Walt, is a big city Maryland transplant, and one of the best in any business. He and his knowledge and love of the horses made it all especially worthwhile. 11,000 acres, 650 horses, picturesque setting, viewed from non-air conditioned rattle trap, dust filled old school bus with more dirt roads and cross range land driving in 100 degree heat. Pick the best of these components and you'll know why we enjoyed the outing.
| He may be wild, but he knows who cares for him. |
Late afternoon, we continued south and crossed into Nebraska, making our way to Chadron's WalMart for a night of a quick dusting and vacuuming, showering, and washing the day's clothes of South Dakota's dust. Oh yes, we decided to wash the coach ourselves in one of those places that gave the appearance that we could drive into the bay. Believe it or not, we tried, heard a "crunch" and decided we wouldn't be washing the coach at this location. Checking the roof top, I decided someone at a much higher altitude than ours had once again saved a less intelligent soul from disaster. No damage whatsoever ... if you discount the barely visible imprint of a brick on the TV satellite dome's paint.
A 40 mph wind was broadsiding our parked coach, pushing the 102 degree heat at us, when the generator quit. Uh oh. No air conditioning. Start. Stop. Start. Stop. The code indicated overheat of either the gen and/or the inverter. Leaving the gen exposed, we decided to cool off in Walmart's air conditioned paradise. Of course that became an expense, but we needed some groceries anyway ... didn't we? Later, trying the generator again, it also quit again. And at 8pm, it's still wind driven HOT. Good fortune reminded us of an RV park a mile away, complete with 50 amp service to drive both ACs, the washer/dryer, nuke oven and both TVs and the ice maker. Even the stock market was up, all of which made life good again for another day.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
The Presidents
Thursday, 8/26
Another perfect weather day with a special evening treat. But first, we attend a time share type of presentation that allowed us to stay at this park for almost nothing for three days. Give the nice man $7,000 and annual "maintenance" fees and our two kids and their kids can travel the world forever so cheaply that we should be ashamed of ourselves for not shouting "YES, WE WILL!". So, you guessed it. We're ashamed.
Back to major housekeeping so that we can enter Nebraska without being quarantined by the health department for six months. Late afternoon and ... off to Mt. Rushmore National Memorial. Most visitor view the massive, mountainside sculptures of Washington, Jefferson, T. Roosevelt and Lincoln during the day.
We chose to pay our respects as the sun was setting, and to participate in the evening ceremony. Included: Patriotic music, a memorable and meaningful speech by the park ranger, beautiful movie of the creation of the memorial, including the reasons for choosing these four presidents, and the finale after dark ... the lighting of the sculptures. Unplanned, but exciting, was the slow procession of large white mountain goats up the path and through the rubble remaining below the presidents' faces.
Concluding was the request for all military veterans to proceed to the amphitheatre stage. It was most touching to see so many slowly make their way through the audience to the stage, accompanied by constant applause. Six volunteered to lower the flag, fold it properly and present it to the ranger.
This evening (with an almost full moon), and the evening rehearsal of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir are the two best planned events experienced on this trip to date.
Tomorrow? We leave the Rapid City/Mt. Rushmore area for a day and overnight at the Wild Horse Sanctuary in the very southwestern corner of South Dakota, a state that has developed a special fondness in us.
Another perfect weather day with a special evening treat. But first, we attend a time share type of presentation that allowed us to stay at this park for almost nothing for three days. Give the nice man $7,000 and annual "maintenance" fees and our two kids and their kids can travel the world forever so cheaply that we should be ashamed of ourselves for not shouting "YES, WE WILL!". So, you guessed it. We're ashamed.
Back to major housekeeping so that we can enter Nebraska without being quarantined by the health department for six months. Late afternoon and ... off to Mt. Rushmore National Memorial. Most visitor view the massive, mountainside sculptures of Washington, Jefferson, T. Roosevelt and Lincoln during the day.
| Five Retired Presidents |
We chose to pay our respects as the sun was setting, and to participate in the evening ceremony. Included: Patriotic music, a memorable and meaningful speech by the park ranger, beautiful movie of the creation of the memorial, including the reasons for choosing these four presidents, and the finale after dark ... the lighting of the sculptures. Unplanned, but exciting, was the slow procession of large white mountain goats up the path and through the rubble remaining below the presidents' faces.
Concluding was the request for all military veterans to proceed to the amphitheatre stage. It was most touching to see so many slowly make their way through the audience to the stage, accompanied by constant applause. Six volunteered to lower the flag, fold it properly and present it to the ranger.
This evening (with an almost full moon), and the evening rehearsal of the Mormon Tabernacle Choir are the two best planned events experienced on this trip to date.
Tomorrow? We leave the Rapid City/Mt. Rushmore area for a day and overnight at the Wild Horse Sanctuary in the very southwestern corner of South Dakota, a state that has developed a special fondness in us.
Wildlife & Guns
Wednesday, 8/25
It's going to be a great day. A new air filter 2/3 the size of Doris appears to have eliminated most of the black cloud of smoke on acceleration. Apparently, the air intake had sucked in and filled the old one with a large quantity of fine, gray/white particles, a couple of beer bottles, and a very annoyed hitchhiker.
After moving from the Elks Lodge to a full service RV park closer to Mt. Rushmore, we took our very basic rental car (manual windows and door locks; no cruise control; a gas tank so small we can fill it with one of the new found beer bottles) and headed off to Custer State Park. Good thing we didn't take the coach. The windy road to access the park was also populated with photogenic one way tunnels that were so height challenged and so narrow that we were required to sound our squeaky-mouse horn before entering. Not sure what the sounding was supposed to do besides frighten mice from entering at the same time.
Anyway, the park gave us natural South Dakota beauty for many miles, but none of the advertised wildlife ... until the wild burros came entered the road to be fed.
And then the pronghorns, prairie dogs ... and finally the bison, better known to the less sophisticated as buffalo, decided to entertain us. Not one bison ... HUNDREDS! Bigger than our car. Heck, bigger than your car! Being surrounded by them, we wisely and quickly cranked up the windows (as if that would save us). It was the only thing we could do besides apologizing to the foaming herd for having once bitten their distant relative after it had been transformed into a buffalo burger.
Did I say foaming herd? I meant pooping herd. My God, these beasts have perfected the natural act to the highest production volume of any animal we've previously encountered. And they don't mind dropping their over sized, fresh meadow muffins on the nicely paved roads. Note to self: In the future, stay a lengthy distance from the car ahead of us. That stuff has also been perfected to fly great distances.
OK, enough potty talk. We thoroughly enjoyed Custer State Park, but eventually wound our way out and onto county roads taking us to Keystone. Another old west town transformed into a tourist attraction, it provided great entertainment and some great laughs at the Red Garter Saloon where we enjoyed a comedic rendition of the life of Wild Bill Hickok and associated gun slingers.
It's going to be a great day. A new air filter 2/3 the size of Doris appears to have eliminated most of the black cloud of smoke on acceleration. Apparently, the air intake had sucked in and filled the old one with a large quantity of fine, gray/white particles, a couple of beer bottles, and a very annoyed hitchhiker.
After moving from the Elks Lodge to a full service RV park closer to Mt. Rushmore, we took our very basic rental car (manual windows and door locks; no cruise control; a gas tank so small we can fill it with one of the new found beer bottles) and headed off to Custer State Park. Good thing we didn't take the coach. The windy road to access the park was also populated with photogenic one way tunnels that were so height challenged and so narrow that we were required to sound our squeaky-mouse horn before entering. Not sure what the sounding was supposed to do besides frighten mice from entering at the same time.
The sign says "No RVs". No kidding.
Anyway, the park gave us natural South Dakota beauty for many miles, but none of the advertised wildlife ... until the wild burros came entered the road to be fed.
| Now we know why our sub-basic rental car came with two mirrors. |
| For some reason, the decision to make a right turn came easily. |
Did I say foaming herd? I meant pooping herd. My God, these beasts have perfected the natural act to the highest production volume of any animal we've previously encountered. And they don't mind dropping their over sized, fresh meadow muffins on the nicely paved roads. Note to self: In the future, stay a lengthy distance from the car ahead of us. That stuff has also been perfected to fly great distances.
OK, enough potty talk. We thoroughly enjoyed Custer State Park, but eventually wound our way out and onto county roads taking us to Keystone. Another old west town transformed into a tourist attraction, it provided great entertainment and some great laughs at the Red Garter Saloon where we enjoyed a comedic rendition of the life of Wild Bill Hickok and associated gun slingers.
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Bikers and Gun Fights
Tuesday, 8/24
25 miles west of Rapid City is Biker Heaven, AKA Sturgis, SD. Home of the annual Biker Weeks in early August, Sturgis was fun for us. Doris had a tough time finding the correct biker chick t-shirt for herself, but it sure was fun helping her. The selection ranges from the really cute to the "Oh MY GODDD!!!". I'll guess you know which one she bought.
Tattoo shops almost outnumber the t-shirt stores, so it was time for Doris to, shall we say, "identify" herself. Unfortunately, she resisted the opportunity. Despite the picture, so did I.
So much of Sturgis is now closed, as it does annually once the 600,000 biker visitors leave, so we moved on to nearby Deadwood. With a river as one boundary, a very close mountainside as the other, Deadwood became famous for its gold and silver mining was famous for something else. Wild Bill Hickok, once sheriff and also a good shot with the highly inaccurate guns of the time, lost his life here. Shot in the back by an assassin, Hickok's demise began with breaking his own rule: Always sitting with his back to the wall.
Deadwood's downtown is still essentially one long street, now filled with boring tourist oriented shops and, uh oh, casinos. Every hotel, and there are numerous, has one in the lobby. Restaurants depend on them for profits more than the all-you-can-stomach buffets.
We didn't leave in time for Doris's husband from paying more for his lunch than the posted price.
Back home, we're watching the news of the Chilean miners who seem in high spirits, but who will have to spend months underground before coming to the surface. Our sympathies and prayers go out to them from this beautiful part of the world. We are so fortunate. We wish the same for them.
25 miles west of Rapid City is Biker Heaven, AKA Sturgis, SD. Home of the annual Biker Weeks in early August, Sturgis was fun for us. Doris had a tough time finding the correct biker chick t-shirt for herself, but it sure was fun helping her. The selection ranges from the really cute to the "Oh MY GODDD!!!". I'll guess you know which one she bought.
| May He Rest Easy |
Tattoo shops almost outnumber the t-shirt stores, so it was time for Doris to, shall we say, "identify" herself. Unfortunately, she resisted the opportunity. Despite the picture, so did I.
| Biker Heaven at Its Worst |
Deadwood's downtown is still essentially one long street, now filled with boring tourist oriented shops and, uh oh, casinos. Every hotel, and there are numerous, has one in the lobby. Restaurants depend on them for profits more than the all-you-can-stomach buffets.
We didn't leave in time for Doris's husband from paying more for his lunch than the posted price.
Back home, we're watching the news of the Chilean miners who seem in high spirits, but who will have to spend months underground before coming to the surface. Our sympathies and prayers go out to them from this beautiful part of the world. We are so fortunate. We wish the same for them.
Rapid City
Monday, 8/23
Doris got us a rental car for the duration. I took the coach to a Cummins shop as we're blowing black smoke on acceleration, not a good sign. Diagnostics showed no codes (a good sign). A new air filter was ordered as the old one is filled with very fine "stuff". We have the replacement before we leave town. We hope that works.
Everyone has to see Wall Drug in (ready for this?) Wall, SD. Founded in the early '30s, business was slow in this one horse town 45 minutes east of Rapid City, the druggist/owner saw traffic zipping by and correctly decided that placing multiple signs for long distances before Wall was a good idea ... if the signs said "Free Ice Water". No kidding. It can be HOT here. Business boomed beyond expectations. in '64 (last century for you young'uns), I stopped there and found it a savior. Car air conditioners were rare. My '56 Ford's operated by opening windows to the outside hot air.
Today, Wall Drug, and a large portion of Wall, is an overblown tourist trap. Black Hills Gold is sold at 50-75% discount in every conceivable retail shop ... and still way over priced, per Doris, the expert on such things. Lunch at Wall Drug challenges the worst of the truck stops that have served me over the years. Lunch at the competition won our vote, only to be necessarily re-digested several times before bedtime.
Sorry, no photos today. We're trying to maintain a positive blog.
Doris got us a rental car for the duration. I took the coach to a Cummins shop as we're blowing black smoke on acceleration, not a good sign. Diagnostics showed no codes (a good sign). A new air filter was ordered as the old one is filled with very fine "stuff". We have the replacement before we leave town. We hope that works.
Everyone has to see Wall Drug in (ready for this?) Wall, SD. Founded in the early '30s, business was slow in this one horse town 45 minutes east of Rapid City, the druggist/owner saw traffic zipping by and correctly decided that placing multiple signs for long distances before Wall was a good idea ... if the signs said "Free Ice Water". No kidding. It can be HOT here. Business boomed beyond expectations. in '64 (last century for you young'uns), I stopped there and found it a savior. Car air conditioners were rare. My '56 Ford's operated by opening windows to the outside hot air.
Today, Wall Drug, and a large portion of Wall, is an overblown tourist trap. Black Hills Gold is sold at 50-75% discount in every conceivable retail shop ... and still way over priced, per Doris, the expert on such things. Lunch at Wall Drug challenges the worst of the truck stops that have served me over the years. Lunch at the competition won our vote, only to be necessarily re-digested several times before bedtime.
Sorry, no photos today. We're trying to maintain a positive blog.
Hello To Old Faces
Sunday, 8/22
It wasn't easy to leave new friends in Lusk, but once they painted my name on the Elks Lodge, it was best to get out of town .. fast.
Reluctantly we did, heading north then east into the Black Hills of South Dakota. Pine forests took over from the high plains, giving us more elevation, more easy, non-interstate driving with little traffic. Vistas around every curve. Then, as we began to descend toward Rapid City, a special view of Mt. Rushmore. Showing only the right profile of George Washington, dynamited and chiseled into the side of the mountain, our introduction to the next five days of touring brought excitement to us. There is so much to see and do within an hour's drive of Rapid City. We intend to do it all.
Our location for the first three days will be the Rapid City Elks Lodge RV parking. Located facing the lodge's golf course, we began meeting another crop of nice people, including RV neighbors from Grants Pass, Oregon. Sharing experiences and cold libations with Jerry and Carol was a fun way to end the the 104 degree day.
It wasn't easy to leave new friends in Lusk, but once they painted my name on the Elks Lodge, it was best to get out of town .. fast.
| A promise made requiring immediate departure from Lusk, WY. Obviously, Jim shows great promise. |
Reluctantly we did, heading north then east into the Black Hills of South Dakota. Pine forests took over from the high plains, giving us more elevation, more easy, non-interstate driving with little traffic. Vistas around every curve. Then, as we began to descend toward Rapid City, a special view of Mt. Rushmore. Showing only the right profile of George Washington, dynamited and chiseled into the side of the mountain, our introduction to the next five days of touring brought excitement to us. There is so much to see and do within an hour's drive of Rapid City. We intend to do it all.
Our location for the first three days will be the Rapid City Elks Lodge RV parking. Located facing the lodge's golf course, we began meeting another crop of nice people, including RV neighbors from Grants Pass, Oregon. Sharing experiences and cold libations with Jerry and Carol was a fun way to end the the 104 degree day.
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