Bikers and Gun Fights

Tuesday, 8/24

25 miles west of Rapid City is Biker Heaven, AKA Sturgis, SD.  Home of the annual Biker Weeks in early August, Sturgis was fun for us.  Doris had a tough time finding the correct biker chick t-shirt for herself, but it sure was fun helping her.  The selection ranges from the really cute to the "Oh MY GODDD!!!".  I'll guess you know which one she bought. 

May He Rest Easy

Tattoo shops almost outnumber the t-shirt stores, so it was time for Doris to, shall we say, "identify" herself.  Unfortunately, she resisted the opportunity.  Despite the picture, so did I. 

Biker Heaven at Its Worst

So much of Sturgis is now closed, as it does annually once the 600,000 biker visitors leave, so we moved on to nearby Deadwood.  With a river as one boundary, a very close mountainside as the other, Deadwood became famous for its gold and silver mining was famous for something else.  Wild Bill Hickok, once sheriff and also a good shot with the highly inaccurate guns of the time, lost his life here.  Shot in the back by an assassin, Hickok's demise began with breaking his own rule:  Always sitting with his back to the wall. 

Deadwood's downtown is still essentially one long street, now filled with boring tourist oriented shops and, uh oh, casinos.  Every hotel, and there are numerous, has one in the lobby.  Restaurants depend on them for profits more than the all-you-can-stomach buffets. 

We didn't leave in time for Doris's husband from paying more for his lunch than the posted price.

Back home, we're watching the news of the Chilean miners who seem in high spirits, but who will have to spend months underground before coming to the surface.  Our sympathies and prayers go out to them from this beautiful part of the world.  We are so fortunate.  We wish the same for them.

Rapid City

Monday, 8/23

Doris got us a rental car for the duration.  I took the coach to a Cummins shop as we're blowing black smoke on acceleration, not a good sign.  Diagnostics showed no codes (a good sign).  A new air filter was ordered as the old one is filled with very fine "stuff".  We have the replacement before we leave town.  We hope that works.

Everyone has to see Wall Drug in (ready for this?) Wall, SD.   Founded in the early '30s, business was slow in this one horse town 45 minutes east of Rapid City, the druggist/owner saw traffic zipping by and correctly decided that placing multiple signs for long distances before Wall was a good idea ... if the signs said "Free Ice Water".  No kidding.  It can be HOT here.  Business boomed beyond expectations.  in '64 (last century for you young'uns), I stopped there and found it a savior.  Car air conditioners were rare.  My '56 Ford's operated by opening windows to the outside hot air.

Today, Wall Drug, and a large portion of Wall, is an overblown tourist trap.  Black Hills Gold is sold at 50-75% discount in every conceivable retail shop ... and still way over priced, per Doris, the expert on such things.  Lunch at Wall Drug challenges the worst of the truck stops that have served me over the years.  Lunch at the competition won our vote, only to be necessarily re-digested several times before bedtime.

Sorry, no photos today.  We're trying to maintain a positive blog.

Hello To Old Faces

Sunday, 8/22

It wasn't easy to leave new friends in Lusk, but once they painted my name on the Elks Lodge, it was best to get out of town .. fast. 

  A promise made requiring immediate departure from Lusk, WY.  Obviously, Jim shows great promise.

Reluctantly we did, heading north then east into the Black Hills of South Dakota.  Pine forests took over from the high plains, giving us more elevation, more easy, non-interstate driving with little traffic.  Vistas around every curve.  Then, as we began to descend toward Rapid City, a special view of Mt. Rushmore.  Showing only the right profile of George Washington, dynamited and chiseled into the side of the mountain, our introduction to the next five days of touring brought excitement to us.  There is so much to see and do within an hour's drive of Rapid City.  We intend to do it all.

Our location for the first three days will be the Rapid City Elks Lodge RV parking.  Located facing the lodge's golf course, we began meeting another crop of nice people, including RV neighbors from Grants Pass, Oregon.  Sharing experiences and cold libations with Jerry and Carol was a fun way to end the the 104 degree day.

Wyoming Shows Off

Saturday, 8/21

The sky is severe clear, the wind is at our back, I-80 and chosen side roads are smooth and empty of traffic.  As we effortlessly roll up and down the hills and around gentlle curves, we concluded that our task was to sit back, relax and enjoy viewing the natural beauty of the open range, grazing cattle and prong horn elk, tiny villages with no speed restrictions ... and the warm breeze flowing through the windows.  Serenity while driving our "house" across the high plains?  Simply, "yes".

From Medicine Bow, we drove Wyoming highway 487 and 220 north to Casper, known for the nearby riches of oil and gas.  The highways are known as The Sand Creek Massacre Trail.  I'll let you Google the name for it refers to a most unpleasant part of our history of overtaking this country from the natives.

East of Casper is Douglas.  Home to the Wyoming State Fair, we had the fun of viewing sheep shearing, prize bales of hay, weighing up to 1,840 lbs.  And to think that when I was a preteen/teenager, I tossed them over my head onto the hay wagon! 

Hmmm, maybe mine were the 75 lb version. 

And then there was the wild horse show, by itself, worth the stop.  Teenage girls brought their wild horses into the ring and showed us how trained these wild, range running beasts had become.  Side-stepping, jumping, reversing, galloping, suddenly stopping to get the mail from a road side mailbox,  having a heavy yellow slicker swung over and around their head ... all without flinching.  These beautiful animals have been rounded up by the Bureau of Land Management to prevent over grazing.  Instead of slaughtering them, the various BLM districts have professional trainers (also demo'ing for us) partially train the horses before auctions, such as the one following the girls' show).  Minimum bid:  $125.  We spoke to one of the girls who's family has three.  Petting her horse and watching him relax after the show gave us a special pleasure, knowing that his fate was in loving hands.

Writing of young girls reminds me of another heartwarming incident; actually several incidents of youthful good manners.  Entering the shuttle wagon drawn behind the omnipresent John Deere farm tractor, no seats were available.  Immediately, two teen girls offered theirs.  This occurred again when we were waiting for a ride in the 94 degree sun.  Our response?  "No thank you, but thank you for your politeness."  Wouldn't be wonderful if our mutual smiles were replicated throughout our country?

An hour east of Douglas on US 18 is Lusk, WY.  A pretty village with an Elks Lodge for our overnight parking gave us a most friendly and enjoyable last night in Wyoming.  Immediately welcomed by members and relatives (and EVERYONE is a relative!), we shared stories, the area's history, food and drink.  Dinner was not officially being served, but food came in, Doris made a steak salad and all of us had a great time.  Housed in a former school house, the Lodge gave us a feeling of being in a home with dear friends.  Jim  & Sheila, having toured the US for four solid years, moved back to Lusk for a good reason:  It's an especially warm and friendly town.  Sheila, like our GPS that we long ago named Sheila, doesn't do directions well, but like everyone else in Lusk, we sure will fondly remember how to get back here.  Thanks "Luskers"!

Big City to Little Town

Friday, 8/20

Salt Lake Shower

(NOTE:  TO ENLARGE PHOTOS, PLACE YOUR CURSOR ON THEM, AND CLICK AT LEAST ONCE.  You may not be impressed, but at least your screen will be filled with views instead of words.)


Cashing in our Enterprise car, we headed north to I-84E to maneuver with other bigger rigs numerous 55 mph curves along a scenic river until we reached I-80 and entered Wonderful Wyoming.  So little traffic, we enjoyed reminiscing (at least I did) about my hitchhiking through this country before freeways in the 60s as I made my way from Vermont to Oregon State University to conclude my undergraduate studies.  Sure wouldn't do it now, but I met so many people/family/ultimate friends.  Ah, the good ol' days really were good for me when I had only $40 to cross the country, with most of it intact at my destination.

After homemade lunch, Doris took the wheel and did a great job of keeping Betsy between the white lines in strong crosswinds and big rigs.  Refueling in Rawlins, we drove the streets of "downtown", deciding that friends Rich & Jackie, Jim & Linda had chosen a rather quiet place to "camp" back in May at the local RV park.  Major clue:  The first JC Penney Catalog Store I've seen in a half century is a hot spot in downtown Rawlins.

We're dining at home tonight.  Fred's Burger Shoppe & Taxidermy didn't impress us.

Stormy Morning. Beautiful Music.

Thursday, 8/19

The plan was to spend the day exploring downtown Salt Lake.  Nature had other plans.  Morning became very dark and very windy.  And then the rain began. BOOM!  Lightning, thunder seldom see in California made a good show ... from inside the coach.  No sightseeing this morning, but a good opportunity for housekeeping and reorganizing our possessions to make life more enjoyable.

Nature also has a way of enhancing our trip.  Mid-afternoon, the skies cleared, the temperature had dropped to the low 70s and the strong wind became a light breeze.  This was perfect for a ten minute drive to downtown Salt Lake and its wide streets with so little traffic that we felt we had the city to ourselves.  A visit to "The Gallery", an attractive two story, outdoor shopping mall incorporating the historic Union Station was a highlight.  While completely empty, the main lobby of the station is decorated with murals and stained glass windows depicting the Old West.  Back lit by the afternoon sun, the windows were a visual treat.

Dinner at Lamb's, the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Utah, complete with original furnishings and antiques, provided comfort food.  No nouvelle cuisine here, but definitely a calm, enjoyable dining experience.

The highlight was to come when we walked into Temple Square and viewed the Mormon Tabernacle, Conference Center and surrounding buildings.  Paths through the abundant trees and flowering gardens encouraged serenity.  We entered one smaller church to enjoy a men's choral group, and another building where an organist was practicing.

At 8pm, we began to experience the primary reason for being in Salt Lake on a Thursday evening:  Witnessing the rehearsing Mormon Tabernacle Choir and accompanying Orchestra.  My words and pictures cannot adequately describe how the efforts of more than 400 singers and musicians lifted our spirits.  Absolutely awesome.  With the backdrop of the numerous (and enormous) organ pipes, the all volunteer group gave us their renditions of "Oklahoma's" 'Oh What a Beautiful Morning', plus "Morning Has Risen", and one exquisitely delivered hymn.   

At the conclusion of the 90 minute rehearsal, we were treated to a clear sky with a half moon rising above the pristine white, multi-spired Temple.  Like the rising voices of the choir, the moon gave us a special lift and an ending to a very special day in Salt Lake.

Tomorrow morning, we leave for Wyoming, taking beautiful memories of Utah with us.

Utah at Rest

Wednesday, 8/18

It is HOT!  Skin cracking dry too.  Yet, dawn meant it was windshield bug removal time if we wanted to see the rest of the US.  The hot task seemed to drain all this window washer's energy.  Meanwhile, my favorite Taiwanese laundress was busy exercising our washer/dryer.  In the end, the only sightseeing we did today was a run to Ogden, an industrial and rail center city north of us.  Home to a renovated Union Pacific rail station and museum, we happened on the dedication of a newly arrived engine from the D&RG, aka Denver & Rio Grande.  Along numerous engines and other rail cars, both commercial and military, all were open for close inspection.  Kids of all ages, including this author, clamored about.  Doris kept out of the sun and missed meeting a retired UP mechanic educating his children, grandchildren, and me about the inner workings of these behemoths that we see on the rails, and how their engineers manage those 1.5 mile long trains.  It was an honor to be his student for 30 minutes.

Returning to the RV park, we met new neighbors, John and Sally from North Carolina.  Acccompanied by their parrot, "Ben".  Sweet couple, fun bird that took a liking to Doris who once owned Ben's cousin "Charlie".

Ben & Doris:  Mutual Admiration

Home to catch up on the blog, fine dining with local fresh corn and one of Doris's grilled, marinated steaks.  This will be followed by a recorded session of History Channel's "Ice Road Truckers" to remind me that life on the road isn't always as decadent as we're privileged to experience. 

Tomorrow?  Salt Lake City and the Mormon Tabernacle Choir rehearsal.  We're excited.